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When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. But, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.